We decided to try Puerto Rico because or even though it is American. There's no Customs or Immigration, no need for a passport, they deal in US dollars, and US healthcare. Normally, we go for the more exotic islands, but what were we missing by doing that? For one thing, Puerto Rico is a good hundred times as large as many of the other islands. Where it takes 45 minutes to drive all the way around Sint Maarten, it takes three hours just to cross Puerto Rico. But most impressive of all are the people. They are always ready with a Buenas Dias, always courteous, always helpful, and always proud of their island. They are also very tactile. At the airport, in the streets, on the worksites, you see hands on backs, on shoulders, or full on hugs. Men to men, women to women and men to women and women to men. They appreciate their friends and co-workers. That's not something you see much of anywhere else. Even the drivers are courteous, stopping well ahead of any pedestrain trying to cross the street. It's important because there's not much street signage, and many intersections don't have all their traffic lights, so pedestrians have to guess when they can cross.

GREAT restaurant in Old Town	Colorful Old Town street

San Juan itself is still suffering the effects of Hurricane Maria from 2017. I'd say a good 20% of the buildings along the north coast are crumbling shells, or just empty lots that have been cleared of debris. Another 10% are damaged but occupied. What building that has taken place is almost exclusively tall white or beige condo towers and hotels. They are giant concrete blocks, and they can spring up in seemingly any neighborhood, right amongst single family homes. And one thing noticeable by its absence is the crane. There are no active construction sites. San Juan is not booming.

Another Old Town street	50 year old lollipop trees still accept trim

It is however, expensive. The price of everything is really elevated, and there's sales taxes galore, even on groceries. If an item is $9.99, you pay $11.14. This is a reflection of the decades-long mismanagement of the economy, the near bankruptcy, and the stingy austerity that results. Hurricanes don't help matters, either

The only bargain is the transit system. The bus costs $1.50, but you have to have exact change, no bills, because the buses still use the old coin counting machines that add up each quarter you drop in. But the buses are modern, fast, air conditioned and never terribly crowded. Nowhere else could you take an air conditioned bus from the airport to your hotel or apartment for $1.50.

The base noise level in San Juan is unfortunately very high, as the mechanicals from all the hotels and condo towers roar 24 hours a day. It is just not peaceful to sit out on the balcony unless you're facing the ocean and the sea is louder than the city.

Incredible root system	Boozing in Old Town

While San Juan is a big city, it does not have any focus. There's no downtown, no government district, no real theatre and arts neighborhood. Anything can be anywhere. So walking the streets of San Juan is not the usual sensory extravaganza people enjoy. There are so many hotel rooms and apartment rentals, that the beach areas are largely devoid of stores, as there are few locals to support a bakery, a shoemaker or a hole-in-the-wall unique eatery. Bars, definitely. Shoe stores, none.

Old San Juan is enormously colorful, but it is largely devoid of commerce. Half the few shops aren't open. There don't seem to be any recognized institutions like the best coffee house, the best pastries, the best cigar maker, basket weaver, sombrero maker, art gallery, or anything. No one hangs out a sign to the effect they've been there since 1525. To walk the streets of Old San Juan is a disappointment, and it is difficult to spend the whole day there.

We had a great time. We ate really well, having done the research to find really great restaurants and even the Miramar Food Truck Park. It has eight food trucks, including a bar truck, covered table areas, but horrifically loud, bad music. We ate Asian and Puerto Rican there. And a vegan place that was the nicest we had ever experienced. We always have a great time on the road.